First Fife trip of 2025

I'm up in Fife for the first time this year. I was supposed to come on Friday but Storm Eowyn had other ideas. I changed my trip to Thursday instead, but this got cancelled too. OK then, I'll just go on Saturday....

Despite a truncated day I managed to visit Letham Pools on Saturday afternoon with my Mum. Nothing new, but a pleasant 45 minutes having a good old scan while she went for a walk in the village and made some new friends. A couple of Stonechat, four Red-legged Partridge, and a remarkable six Raven was the best of it. If I keep coming I'll keep finding new birds - I think I am on 96 for the site now after something like 45 visits. Tantalisingly close to a nice round number. The site isn't as good as previously though, the farmer has given up trying to drain it and as such there is no mud any more. And no mud means no waders. After that we had a quick stop at Birnie and Gaddon lochs for a Great White Egret. This was on Gaddon, the southern lake, and may or may not be the Angle Park bird that I found all the way back in September. This was the first of a veritable influx, so many birds that it was actually impossible to say how many there were. Most moved on but a few lingered. 

There are trees down all over the place, this central part of Scotland got a real battering. The ones on roads have been cleared away to allow vehicles to pass, but everywhere I've been birding the last two days has required some kind of clambering or minor detour. At Birnie and Gaddon the entrance track just past the little bridge is completely blocked, and I'd imagine this is the case almost everywhere. Damage at Chateau L deux was limited thankfully.

Today I started down at Leven, scoping the sea for Ducks. There have been a couple of Surf Scoter here but I couldn't find them, the sea was pretty choppy and stirred up after Eowyn. Lots of Velvet Scoter though, Long-tailed Ducks, Red-breasted Merganser, and eight Scaup. From there I carried on around Largo Bay to Balbuthie which is just above Kilconquhar. Some White-fronted Geese have been hanging around with the Pink-feet here, and a good old scan found three, probably four, but on the point of confirming something spooked them and they all relocated to the middle of the field. This was a Fife tick, and feeling quite satisfied and rather than start again I went to Ruddon's Point.

A female Merlin was a nice surprise at the Cocklemill Burn, and a handful of Twite were around the second bridge. Even more surprising was a hunt in full flow, a pack of hounds and a load of riders on horseback, even a bit of bugling. I had no idea this even happened in Fife, I thought it was an exclusively English pursuit and that Fife wasn't posh enough. Needless to say I am not a fan. They did put up a load of Grey Partridge though, and hundreds of Wood Pigeon. Of Foxes there were no sign. Good!

At Ruddon's Point itself I scanned westwards from the high ground. The sea seemed a lot calmer from here, and I could easily pick out half a dozen Red-throated Divers and a single Black-throated Diver. One Slavonian Grebe was about halfway out, and I had good views of the Velvet Scoters. It's great up here, and this particular site is one of the best. On a calm day it can be magnificent, Largo Bay like a skating rink.

The only downer was that a Tundra Bean Goose spent the day on Wanstead Flats. This is a rare bird nationally, in London even more so, so to miss one on the patch is particularly gutting. Hopefully it sees no need to leave the lovely Greylag it is hanging around with.

Meanwhile in Fife

I went up to Fife again at the end of last week to check on the old folks. They are doing fine of course, so I just went birding. Mostly I visited Letham Pools, and this time I remembered to take a photograph, aware that my last attempt at Letham bloggage rather stupidly forgot this key item. So here it is at about 6am one morning, during a thunder storm. I actually went every day - wader season is upon us and the mud is looking rather fantastic. During my time away in London, or rather, whilst I have been leading my normal life at home in London, I missed White-rumped Sandpiper and Pectoral Sandpiper at Letham, but I have now added a consolation Greenshank. I am back there again soon, so fingers crossed.

Usually I bird on foot from the road, but here I am sheltering in the back of the car

I visited every morning I was there, I just really like it. The Snipe numbers were particularly impressive, with 30 there most days, as well as up to nine Water Rail all out in the open feeding. Black-tailed Godwits were in the shallows, Common Sandpipers skittered around the place, and on one day no fewer than five Greenshank were present, a site tick for me. On the day I had also been to North Queensferry for Tree Pipit vizmig, when I dropped in at Letham for a few minutes before starting work three Tree Pipits also buzzed over the pools - a multi-dimensional site!

Three of the five Greenshank, with a Snipe

Sunrise from Ferry Hills watchpoint

Fife remains a superb place to go birding, though while I was there is was quieter than I had been hoping. I did manage to quickly nip to the Eden Estuary for a late evening Pectoral Sandpiper, though we all know I would have preferred to see it at Letham... 

However the most exciting birding moment was after lunch on Saturday on my parents' terrace. I had just taken the final sip of rosé when I heard a familiar cronk and heading towards the house were two large black dots. I dashed inside for my bins, discarding sunglasses and hat in a mad rush, and returned in time to see two Ravens fly majestically north past the house. I only saw Raven for the first time in Fife last year, but they are on the increase in the Kingdom as I also had a pair at Largo Bay at the start of this year. Given I also jammed Jay from the garden in January, that completes my expected patch Corvids. Unless a Hooded Crow would like to relocate.... more chance of that than a Chough I suppose.

Tantalisingly close

I was wondering earlier today whether I had waffled sufficiently about eBird recently. I decided that I had, but unfortunately this isn't going to stop me. The functionality is quite amazing, and if you are a bird nerd, simply wonderful. Allegedly. For instance a couple of days ago I had just completed a bit of a garden bird watch, and realised in doing so that the five Bullfinch in my parent's garden were my 498th species for 2019. I am sure that all fellow bird nerds will realise that to finish a year on 498 species is simply unacceptable.

I had a quick look at what I'd seen, what I hadn't seen, and what was likely to be seen around Fife. Plenty as it happened. I persuaded my Mum to drive me to Leven to see if there were any Goldeneye - there were. It was like being 16 again. So, 499. 

499 is of course even more unacceptable than 498, however fear not, for family gatherings in late December are bracing pre-lunch walk territory, and I could likely swing this to my advantage. Our family is extremely democratic, so my father immediately vetoed a trip to Loch Leven. He wanted to go the beach he said, so naturally we all fell in line as he had the car keys. In my mid forties I am still not responsible enough to be insured to drive his car.

So off to Largo Bay we went. In truth I was not disappointed, it is one of my favourite places to go birding anywhere, species count be damned. Half the family, me included, were dropped off at Shell Bay. The others returned to Lower Largo where we would meet them in a couple of hours.

South-east to Ruddon's Point

Our route took us out to Ruddon's Point, across the Cocklemill Burn, and then along the wide sweep of Largo Bay to the village of Lower Largo. The weather was kind, the light fantastic, and I enjoyed the kind of birding that mostly I only dream of. Flocks of sea duck on a mirror-like surface, clockwork Sanderlings running up and down the beach accompanied by Bar-tailed Godwit and Grey Plover, Rock Pipits and Turnstone in the tidal wrack. Knot, Oystercatcher, Ringed Plover and Dunlin scavenging along the rockier shoreline. Armed only with bins, the identification of many of the birds in the bay was beyond me, but two Slavonian Grebe were clear cut, as were a pair of Guillemot, several Red-breasted Merganser, and a handful of Long-tailed Duck. All Scoters I assigned to Common, I could detect no white, but the Eiders were easy enough, far bulkier. In short it was fabulous, and I was surprised to discover when I arrived at the village that my year list stood at 504. Mission accomplished, and with proper birding rather than any kind of targeted tick and run.

Looking west towards Lower Largo and Methil

I recorded 47 species during what was a very pleasant walk indeed. I was in the moment, it was almost valedictory. No bird escaped - the single call of a Reed Bunting, the chattering of a Wren, the clicking of Stonechats. I love birding, it does not matter where I am, there are always birds.

Ruddon's Point

I was in Scotland a couple of weekends ago, checking in on aged relatives. As I myself age I find myself less inclined to subject myself to Scottish weather, and more inclined to sit inside near warm Agas, but I did manage to get out for a short stroll at Ruddon's Point on the Fife coast. This is one of my favourite birding locations. These days I either bird Wanstead or somewhere in a different country. Trips to the coast, for instance North Norfolk, or perhaps the Naze in Essex, or one of the many great sites in Suffolk are all pretty much unknown these days. I should get out more, it would be good for me. And yet...and yet I am perfectly happy really. I feel no great need to go birding here there and everywhere. Some people I know are out every weekend, and why not. Do what makes you happy, don't do what won't. It's not that going to the coast would upset me of course, it's just that staying at home and pottering around the place also makes me happy and is the easy option. The warm option too!

Anyway we felt we should get out of the house, and as it is a nice easy walk I suggested Ruddon's. The path takes you from Shell Bay out to the edge of the pines and then to a small headland with a view back across Largo Bay all the way to Leven. It was early in the winter period, so the bay was not stuffed with birds, but with just binoculars I was nonetheless able to pick out two Red-throated Divers, three Red-breasted Mergansers, and a few rafts of Common Scoter and Eider. Around the rocks were loads of Oystercatcher and Redshank, and on the beach a few Turnstones pottered around as a Rock Pipit stood watch. Glorious.

On my local patch I have not seen any of these birds, and so it was extremely refreshing in multiple senses. So refreshing in fact that we hurried back to the car, were thankful for the heated seats, and then zoomed home to the warm kitchen for a hot lunch!

Meanwhile Ray the postman is still in shorts.

What Wanstead lacks

Largo Bay and around

Early one morning last week whilst I was playing carer I managed to sneak out to Ruddon's Point on Largo Bay. I always try and pay a visit when I am up here, it is one of the best places I have ever birded and is simply consistently excellent. I swear I've seen the same drake Surf Scoter here for about six years on the trot now. Not this year though, as I didn't have a scope as I did not anticipate doing any birding on this visit. Largo Bay being vast this was rather limiting, but with perseverance  I still came away with some nice birds including Red-throated Diver and Long-tailed Duck amongst the Common Scoter and Eider.

It is a totally wonderful spot and in contrast to the previous day at Loch Leven the weather was glorious, including the sunrise. There is something about the sun rising.....ok ok, I won't start all that. Anyway, I had the place to myself and didn't see a single person for the entire time I was there - given where I usually bird this was utterly fantastic, a real treat. Unlike many birders I am not socially inept, but I do prefer not having to talk to people for that brief amount of time I am out and about. I do enough being polite and talkative for many hours per day, a break is good now and again.

The tide was right out, which probably did not help my birding cause. I didn't feel confident picking my out to the edge of the rocks; the last thing my wider family needs right now is yet another fracture or break. Instead I observed from the reassuringly solid grass and sand, getting nice enough views of Redshank, Turnstone and Oystercatcher doing what they do, whilst Reed Buntings, and Rock and Meadow Pipits fluttered around inland. The Surfie was surely out there somewhere, but I expect I shall be back up here soon enough and now that I know I can nip out I'll bring a scope and see if I can pick it up. Meanwhile I enjoyed the views and the sound of the sea, the Bass Rock visible from behind Elie, and some distant villages near North Berwick visible on the other side of the Forth, whilst sea duck flew back and forth and the sky gradually grew brighter.

I had not planned to be up in Scotland until much later this year, but despite the circumstances it is good to have seen a few decent winter birds that I would not have seen down south. I've added a new bird to the Scotland list I don't keep, and I also added a couple of birds to my alternative garden list up here. I do keep this one, but I've written quite enough already and so this can wait until next time.

Snowy Egret

Blogging is great isn't it? I think I have almost reached the zenith, whereby I flip open the laptop and write down everything I've done recently in the mistaken belief that anyone cares. I went here, I saw this, I went home. This is bird blogging as it is meant to be. And you wonder why it is on the way out... and this is today's offering I am afraid, as the last few days have been rather uneventful. Don't forget the 'back' button.

So.....I nipped out yesterday afternoon in order to avoid cabin fever. My destination, Loch Leven RSPB. No reason really, I just wanted to see some birds. Any birds. I didn't get out until about 2pm, there is a lot of stuff that needs doing in the ancestral home at the moment. It was a nasty day, drizzle and quite windy, and as I crossed over to Perthshire it started to snow - not the best birding weather but I didn't care, it was just nice to be out. I've not been to Loch Leven for quite a few years, my usual destination when I am up here is the coast. I crossed through the tunnel that takes you under the road and wandered down the muddy path to the first hide.

No birds. Not one. I could make out the shapes of distant Swans further away on the loch, and lots of duck, but in terms of birds right there? Nada. The second and third hides were the same. Two Black-headed Gulls and a Mallard in 800m. Glacial, driving sleet, and nothing to see. Any nacsent birders visiting Loch Leven yesterday would have ditched their binoculars there and then and taken up golf. Or knitting. I retreated to the visitor centre and went up to the top floor to warm up. They have a few telescopes bolted to the windows, and despite the fact I knew there was nothing there I idly fired one up and started scanning.... Yes, there was the Mallard, phew. Only one Gull left, you can't win them all. Oh, a white blob on the next scrape, that's where it is. Better check it, just in case.

WAAAAAHHHHH!! It's only a bloody Little Egret! I know what you're thinking. Dross. Down south maybe, but up here it's a rare bird. No doubt it will become common as the species inexorably conquers the entire world, but in 2017 it's still a good record. I've been birding in Scotland a lot and this is the first I've ever seen. No doubt had I been chasing a list I would have seen one some time ago, but ex-Shetland my birding up here tends to be a pretty casual affair. To put this in context, I've seen Spoonbill and Hoopoe in eastern Scotland, and you would easily say that Little Egret is by some magnitude commoner than either of those. Very pleasing, and turned a turgid excursion into a downright success. Needless to say it didn't look happy. The flood was mostly frozen and it was just stood there, hunched up and doing nothing whilst the snow settled on the ice. You would think that at some point these pioneering species would reach a point where they stopped, thought about it for a while, and then decided that enough was enough and actually it would be better if they retreated a bit. This Little Egret looked like that was on the cards. 

Where shall we go on a family walk?

Using an old Jedi mind trick employed by birders with families the world over, I persuaded the family that the ideal pre-lunch family outing should be to Ruddon's Point on the north side of the Firth of Forth. "Is there a rare bird there?" was Mrs L's immediate response. "No no no no no no no, er well yes maybe. Well, it was there yesterday. Probably gone now, I wouldn't worry". Somehow the destination remained unchanged, and so a small gaggle of us arrived to some mild rain at the Shell Bay caravan site mid-morning. The target was a female King Eider a lovely family walk in a beautiful location. A location that frequently attracts rare nearctic ducks. Allegedly.

No proper camera today, but there were loads of these about looking marvellous.

I walked briskly to the Point, children, wife and father left in my wake. It was going to be challenge with bins only but I felt confident I could pick up her supreme gingerness at some distance. Mistake. The flocks of ducks were generally miles out, and with the nearer birds quickly dismissed any hope of finding the Queen Eider was basically dead in the water. Still, it isn't all about rare birds these days, and so just with bins I had a careful scan of what was identifiable. And it was superb, from a Londoner's perspective there was quality everywhere! A Red-throated Diver was close in, and small flocks of Mergs drifted along. As well as the Common Eider, small numbers of Common Scoter were visible, but nothing gave a flap to show white panels so Velvet remains needed for 2016. Two larger Divers were further out, but I wouldn't like to put a name to them. Probably one each of GND and one Black-throated if I had to guess..... A Long-tailed Duck was diving constantly quite close in, and Mrs L and Père L were able to get on a Gannet flying over. A few Razorbills were seen, and before I was dragged away I also saw groups of Oystercatchers, Redshank and a Curlew. So although necessarily brief, you really can't fault even the shortest time birding Largo Bay. Most enjoyable, and all to the backdrop of singing Skylarks, Meadow Pipits, Yellowhammers and Chaffinches. 

Mrs L describes my waistline.

Along the beach we were diverted by stone skimming, and the children were pleased to get up close and personal with a Common Eider which showed very well indeed. Back where we had left the car, right at the entrance to the caravan park, were two birders with scopes. You know what they say, find the birders find the bird. Well it's very often true and remained so today - they had Mrs King Eider lined up and ready, and had done really rather well as she was pretty far out towards Edinburgh. Decent views though, and easily pickable amongst the Common Eider. 

Afforded excellent views whilst resting on the beach.

By fortunate happenstance there was a drake Ring-necked Duck at Kilconquhar Loch, only a short distance away from where we had ended up on our family outing. It would have been rude not to go really, so the family waited patiently* in the car whilst I walked through the church yard to have a look. Without a scope this was rather a challenge, but my recent familiarisation in Arizona helped my clock the two-toned flanks from quite a way away. Not the best views ever, but when ticking rare birds when did that ever matter? Quite. Kerching. 

All good and so back to Uberchateau L for a lovely and well-deserved lunch, two rarities UTB and a host of decent and distinctly non-E11 birds seen in a great location. I've never been disappointed birding the Fife Coast, and I'm fortunate to have a second base up here from which to conduct filthy twitchery and other bird-based activities. Aviemore etc is only a couple of hours away, Norfolk distance basically, and you've a ton of great birding spots up there. As the old folks, er, get older, no doubt I'll be making more trips this way, and that can only be a good thing. For family harmony. Obviously.


* not patiently at all, do they not realise that one does not simply rock up and instantly find yank Ducks? 

East Neuk

I've just spent some time in Fife, a place that has become a favourite of mine over the last ten years. Didn't get out much as I had hoped, but it was a working holiday so that was expected, however one day we went for a big walk out to some of the fishing villages that make up the backbone of the East Neuk of Fife - Elie, St Monan's, Pittenweem, Anstruther and Crail. Of these, Elie is our favourite by far. It's here that the kids go to summer sailing school, here that we play cricket on the beach and construct immense sand castles, and where the adults retire to the Ship Inn for much-needed refreshment. As we set off along the smaller beach towards the light house, I spotted a male Eider close in to the rocks. I had fortunately brought my camera with me on the offchance that there might be something to point at it, and this bird surprised me by being completely untroubled by me going right up to the edge of the rocks and lying down almost at sea level. I had intended just taking a few, but seeing as this beautiful duck seemed to have no interest in drifting away, I had to give it more time - the others continued on their walk and I got busy.

After a fish supper in Anstruther I was dropped off at Shell Bay and walked the short distance to Ruddon's Point. If a year goes by when I don't get a few hours winter birding at this fabled spot then something is very wrong indeed. The family had firmly expressed no interest whatsoever in accompanying me to scan through flocks of sea ducks, so they dropped me and went home to bake a cake, promising to pick me up later. Perfect, nobody moaning or telling me to hurry up. Largo Bay is a large bay, and my annual American target is a small bird, so I set up my scope and got scanning. Some years it takes longer, some years it's shorter. Memorably one year I set up my scope and the Surf Scoter was right in the middle of it in perfect focus, I still have no idea how that happened. This year it took about a quarter of an hour, and was once again quite distant, but there was no mistaking his striking head pattern, especially from the back. With Common Scoter, reliably bobbing about for perhaps the sixth year running. I have no idea if it's the same bird, but if you want to see a Surf Scoter year after year, I can't think of many places in the UK better than Largo Bay. Plenty of Velvets as well, and a Slav Grebe, but it was actually quite a choppy day. Some days it's like a lake, and the birding is unbelievable. More challenging today, but just as satisfying even if I didn't see as much.

  

I spent a bit of time attempting to photograph waders at the mouth of the burn, and then decided that as I had missed most of the walk earlier that I would cross it and walk the length of the beach back to Lower Largo - a pretty lengthy stroll. Plenty of Godwit and Oystercatcher, with Dunlin and Sanderling scooting up and down. All in all a decent day out, and I'm already looking forward to my next visit, whenever that will be.

Largo Bay looking east from Lower Largo, Ruddon's Point in the distance

Alex Salmond rules on my list

Today is a really important day. Today the people of Scotland vote, and the responsibility must be unbearable. This is a decision that could have huge repercussions, and none is more important than my list. The vote is essentially on whether my list stays at 419, or drops to 402, for I've seen 17 species in Scotland and nowhere else. That's what Alex Salmond has basically been banging on about for the last few weeks. I mean yes, he talks about national identity, about a proud nation etc, but when he says "Let's do it!" what he really means is "Let's wipe the smile off those smarmy UK listers, coming over here and taking our birds."

This is outrageous. I've paid good money to see those 17 birds. Seven of those have been on Shetland, involving five highly expensive trips. I suppose I did manage to subsequently see Hornemann's Arctic Redpoll in Suffolk and Buff-bellied Pipit in London, but Syke's Warbler, Lancie and Pechora could be more difficult. Last year I even bloody twitched Shetland for that Pine Grosbeak. Had I known.....And then a month after that I was on the Hebrides for the Harlequin Duck. I demand a refund! And as for my exciting Yank trio of Coot, Duck and Herring Gull, well they cost me a weekend and about £30 each, and were dull as ditch-water to boot. You think I went to see them for their aesthetic value? For what they could teach me about plumage? Pah! It was for my UK list, a UK that includes Scotland. And what about the Black Scoter? That sodding thing took me seven hours to find off Blackdog. Seven hours, some of them whilst being chased by a naked man wearing a sailor's cap. Is the Yes Campaign really saying that that was all in vain? How can that be fair, it's just so short-sighted. I guess I should count my lucky stars that the Sandhill Crane relocated to Suffolk where I saw it again, even though at the time it was one of the worst things that had happened in my entire life as it meant all my mates then saw it. 

Then there's all the endemics. Where am I going to see a Ptarmigan in England, Wales or Northern Ireland? Or a Crested Tit? And what about Scottish Crossbill? Presumably all those will have to now pass a DNA test or they'll be shipped back across the border? The whole situation is nuts, and clearly hasn't been thought through properly. For starters what about all the economic benefits that birders bring to Scotland? On some trips I've forgotten the Double Deckers and had to purchase them up there, and on Shetland I reckon I've spent at least £20 on pies over the years. And this is just me! There are literally tens of other people like me who could also withdraw their custom, the damage to the people of Scotland could be immense. Westminster would have to increase their already massive subsidies to make up the shortfall. Oh, wait.....

Gone but not forgotten....

Thank God

More from the Hebrides

With the Harlequin and Cackling Canada Goose under the belt, Saturday was basically a free day until our ferry back to Oban mid-afternoon. After the morning viewgasm from the hostel, we packed up, and following a hearty breakfast of strong coffee and multiple cereal bars, we headed for the west beach at Berneray, there to see what we could see. Up first on the Machair was a mixed flock of Twite with a few Snow Bunting thrown in. This wasn't strictly a photographic mission, so time was limited, but I managed a few out of the car window. More of the Twite here.

We walked the short distance to the beach, four miles of white sand. If I do bring the family here, this beach will feature heavily - it was superb. And completely empty. I suppose it could be busier in summer, but with four miles to choose from, would you really notice? Out on the sea were upwards of 20 Great Northern Divers, four spectacular Summer-plumaged Slavonian Grebes, with a supporting cast of Auks and Long-tailed Ducks.

I rarely feature on this blog, as I'm always behind the camera, however here I passed it over to Bradders, making sure, of course, to carefully conceal my chins. Anyway, here I am complete with camo hat, hat hair, and a lightweight camera. Any grey visible is purely photographic artifact, excess sharpening, errr.... And no, I have no idea what Nick is up to behind me.

Bradders points out where a Snowy Owl might decide to summer......

Onwards to a spot of different habitat, a road over some higher ground where we had seen Short-eared Owl briefly the previous evening. We hadn't gone up this road more than about half a mile before Nick called a Harrier to our right. One soon became three, including a displaying male bird - incredible. Being from down south we naturally had to resist the urge to shoot them out of the sky, but up here it seems that they are under no pressure. The lack of expensive, elitist Grouse shoots and sly old gamekeepers is of course purely coincidental. We had a cup of coffee and yet more museli bars whilst enjoying the spectacle.

A quick spin around Balranald to dip the Snow Goose again, and we crossed back to Benbecula and over to South Uist where we dipped an American Wigeon but enjoyed a very smart male Merlin and another male Hen Harrier. A spot more birding in various locations added Greenland Whitefronts, a diminutive White-tailed Eagle on the deck, juv Kumlien's Gull and our first Robin, Dunnock and Chaffinches of the trip - exciting!! It was soon time to go though, and the ferry was perfectly on time - Calmac runs a great service. Perhaps forty people on the boat, but it goes anyway. Speaking to a member of the crew they run it empty if needs be as the boats need to be where the boats need to be - truly the lifeline of the communities out west, and ideal for birders. Bruichladdich was on special....

Harlequin Twitch

Twitching is easy provided you see the bird. Despite my recent record of seemingly going for everything, I'm actually a very cautious twitcher, and let's not forget that it's winter, not much turns up, and those that do tend to stick. I think I waited over two weeks or more before going up for the Pine Grosbeak, and I waited even longer for the Harlequin. In fact I was in Scotland on the way back from the Grozzer when news of the duck broke, and carried on south. Over five weeks later and the Harlequin was still there, so the trip was on - again a four day break. I'm just not up for chartering up there and doing in it a day - that isn't birding. I guess it also means that if you dip you can come back with your head held high and pretend to your mates that it was still a great trip well worth doing....

We didn't dip. One day I will come a cropper for certain, but for now I am maintaining what I consider an enviable record, and seeing some great birds in some great locations - and on my own terms. Once again Bradders was the filthy catalyst, Nick was happy to come along for the ride, and the fourth member of the Uist team was made up by Bob, local birder and one-time lapsed twitcher. Clearly North Uist is not easy to get to, and as Monkey pointed out to me, 40 hours between leaving and seeing the bird is pretty extreme, but nonetheless I'd still say it was pretty easy. As with the Grozzer, the tactic was to leave in the early evening and get to Carlisle and our favourite Travelodge, and last known location of a tube of Colgate.....

Next morning and all we had to do was to reach Oban for 3pm, so naturally we called in at a few bits and pieces on the way up, namely my fourth Blue-winged Teal (Dumfries) and my fifth Lesser Scaup (Clyde). Ditching the car at Oban in the free carpark, we boarded the MV Lord of the Isles for our five hour crossing to South Uist in glorious sunshine. Manx Shearwaters and a few beers shortened the crossing considerably and at 9pm we docked at Loch Boisedale and picked up our hire car with minimal (read none) paperwork, and were shacked up in a bunkhouse a short while later for the princely sum of £10 a night. It was probably worth no more than £7.50........

Next morning (Good Friday) and we awoke to Greenshanks and Oycs, Twite on wires, vocal Starlings, and simply magnificent scenery. To think that I'd been in Canary Wharf only a couple of days ago was just bonkers, but there you go - easy. We didn't hang about, the Uists are long and thin - we were at the Southern end, the bird was, we hoped, at the Northern end. It was. Disappointingly there were five twitchers already on site - that said, for an absolute mega this is minimal - imagine something similar down south. There's an argument right there for only twitching remote islands..... The Harlequin was bobbing about on a sparkling Atlantic Ocean, and stood on white sands we soaked it all in. Many of you will have read Mark Cocker's excellent Twitchers: Tales of a Tribe. In it he describes seeing the long-staying Steller's Eider on South Uist. Although back in those days it was clearly a much bigger deal to get to the Outer Hebrides, especially if poverty-stricken and hitching, it felt much the same. Wonderful. Gradually the tide receded and I was able to close the distance by inching out along a rocky peninsula, until the Harlequin was only 30 or so metres away, with St. Kilda visible in the distance. Brilliant, simply brilliant.

 

 

Harlequin "crowd"

We probably spent most of the morning at Balranald, most of it with this very special duck. Dragging ourselves away, we began birding properly. Ring-necked Duck fell quite quickly, my fourth of those and also the fourth yank duck of the trip. Eagles soared in the distance, and wild Barnacles and Greylag were everywhere, with the constant backdrop of singing Skylarks and displaying Lapwings. The next main target was the Richardons's Canada Goose, basically a tiny little Canada that has definitely come from across the pond. I am pleased to say that my knowledge of CG taxonomy has moved on a great deal since last week, and so when we finally found it in amongst a thousand Barnies I had no doubt at all what I was looking at. Ahem. It's a strange thing, but could you describe a Canada Goose? I mean really describe? What is the face pattern? Where does the black end? Neck collar or not? What colour are the flanks? And yet I see Canadas every day - they are omnipresent and invisible. I don't mind admitting that after picking through Barnacle Geese for an hour I basically couldn't describe a Canada Goose to you. Eventually we found it, and of course it was obvious, but it was an interesting lesson. I can't tick it yet, but the hope is that the BOU or whatever committee it is add it onto the British list very soon, at which point the other committee, whoever they are, can then start going through all the records and accepting them. Since getting home I've had a quick look at Sibley and it's definitely a Richardson's, and the location and carrier suggests wild origin. I'm going to be good though, and not count it until it's accepted - this is inordinately hard as it would be bird # 399 for me. Yes, the same 399 that is very close to 400. I realise that this small fry in the great British listing scene, but I'm not a twitcher, so I'm doing really well.

Corn Bunting out of the window

We enjoyed a great day birding the top of North Uist, picking up an adult Glaucous Gull and a host of other good birds. To be honest, seeing roadside Lapwing, Oystercatcher and Redshank almost constantly is pretty awesome. Birding a local patch in London (sometimes!), to get good close views of any of these is practically unknown. The treat of the day however was to be the hostel at Bernaray. Bradders and Mrs Bradders had been here many years ago, for a night that turned into a fortnight, and I can see why. Here are a few photos of dawn the next morning - many apologies for these possibly outnumbering photos of birds, but that's simply a measure of quite how much I enjoyed this place. I'm actually thinking of taking the family back for a summer holiday next year - top marks from this birder.

 

Nick presumably points out a Coot

Post-cootial relaxation

No twitch would be complete without Snuffi....

 

Bob, Nick, DB and I celebrated our latest megatick with a slap-up meal at a local restaurant. Hand-dived Scallops were so excellent that I forgot temporarily that I didn't like Scallops, and the very understanding staff agreed that it was for the best that they sent us on our way with two more bottles of house wine. These we consumed in the communal area of the hostel, a thatched building with a real fire, good company, and a sense of deep satisfaction.

Back to Reality

Amazingly we didn't twitch the Harlequin Duck as well. News broke just as we were watching a pair of Golden Eagles drift across the Cairngorms. Naturally I was all for it, but it wasn't to be. When Bradders said we were heading back to London, and after I picked myself up off the floor having fainted, we pointed the car towards Fife and the ancestral home. I'm not scottish as far as I know, but my parents moved to Fife about ten years ago having quite correctly decided the south of england didn't represent value for money. Semi-moved I suppose, as there's a lot of time spent in Cambridge still. Happily for birders everywhere, or at least ones in the same car as me, there is now a nice pad to crash at en route to twitching-related activities in the far north. Having spent a night in a Travelodge, and then two nights in a miniscule cabin on the ferry, the prospect of a real bed and some home comforts was very welcome indeed. It's safe to say that never before has so much Chinese takeaway been eaten in my mum and dad's kitchen.....

After an evening spent consuming the whisky stash I had patiently accumulated up there, we woke up 'refreshed' and hit Largo Bay. This is a great spot for winter birding, and amongst all the sea duck a lone Surf Scoter was hiding somewhere. This took ages to pin down, mainly on account of it being practically off Leven, but luckily it's an adult drake so even at range the white blob on the back of the head enabled us to pick it out. I reckon I've ticked the same bird four or five times now! Great views of Velvets here as well, and of course Long-tailed Ducks and Mergs. All too soon though it was time to get back in the car and head for home. Our last birding act of a pretty fabulous four days was to score Black Grouse in the Pennines, first time I've seen them in England. We drove a shade under 1500 miles all told, saw just over 100 species, ticked Megafinch, and had a great time. Well done Team Grozzer! And thanks to Bradders Birding Tours for providing the twitchmobile and driving it.

Just so that those also driving the A1 southbound knew we were really really cool

 

Nick scanning for Coots

Meanwhile in Wanstead, the place I notionally live in and go birding at, the action has been pretty non-stop. Adrian's had Waxwing twice, and the day I got back Dan found four Goldeneye on Perch which is amazing. He is developing somewhat of a track record having found two last year - back then he enquired if this was normal, and so was surprised to cause a mass local twitch. Maybe he was right after all. Naturally I twitched them, and very nice they were too - three drakes and a female, as usual very skittish and they only stayed for the day. Despite Dan thinking they're actually common as muck, they're still a prized bird round here, and my list is very grateful. No time to take any decent photos, not that I would have stood much of a chance as I can only photography really tame and stupid stuff, but here is one for the record books.

Attack of the Killer Bonxies

The last time I was on Mull, a weekend trip with Mrs L a deux, which if you are so inclined - and bored - you can read about here, we went for a walk on a nice headland. I took the scope with us, for I fancied that we might be able to see the sea, and generally the sea has seabirds on it. I felt certain I could get Mrs L to confidently see a Bonxie. It might be a dot in the scope, but it would be dark with white wing-flashes. I could brandish the Collins at her, and she could feel the happiness that only a tick could bring. In the event a Great Skua flew right over our heads as we walked along, which at the time felt quite unusual but I thought nothing further of it.

So when contemplating where to take Muffin for a boy's birding adventure, I idly wondered if a land-based Skua might not have been a breeding Skua. OK, so this is three years after the event but nothing ventured and all that. I vaguely remembered where this particular place was, so that's where we set off for. We dumped the car near a farmhouse, and set off for what looked like the headland I remembered, and bugger me if when we got to near the end there weren't a pair of Bonxies sat there. Whilst Muffin and I were extremely pleased to have stumbled upon them - exactly as per Mrs L's experience, what a great way to see a bird for the first time - the same could not be said of the Bonxies' feelings towards us. As we came over the brow, the male took off and circled around us, and as I tried to get the sun behind us, came straight for us before settling again. I nabbed a few photos, and we retreated to a safer distance.

Back in 2009, we must have been somewhere slightly different, as we only saw a bird in flight, and didn't get warned off. Consequently, although the views were superb, they were very brief. This time we got scope views that were nothing less than sensational. Up close, Bonxies are magnificent. Their beaks are pure evil, and rather than the usual impression of "dark", they proved to be very gingery and patterned. Great noises too, nasal grunts and cackles, decidedly wicked I thought. We watched for a while, during which time the Skuas did very little, and then went back the way we had come, at which point the male got up and attacked us again, despite the fact we were leaving. I very nearly regurgitated a litte piece of fish from the previous night's dinner, but the charge was half-hearted and so I am here and able to recount the tale and show you the photos - the bird sat down is the female, presumably on eggs, whereas the standing and in-flight ones are the male. I had no chance to see if the bird three years ago was ringed, but I expect it's the same pair, and that they breed on Mull every year. A brilliant experience.