Oahu - Trip List

Here are the 50 species we saw, of which over half are naturalised exotics. There is a list below, and for more detail about exact site please use this eBird link.

"Who? Me?"

 

"Yes, you"

  

Oahu - Day 4

What to do today, our final day on the island with a late evening departure to Los Angeles? Another tour of the island is what - when you have a Mustang convertible it would be rude not to, and you can't beat the wind rushing through your hair, or at least that's what Mick said. We had another look for ducks at Kahuku fish ponds (failed again), another look at the Bristle-thighed Curlew at the golf course (this time there were two birds), and then drove the Lyon Arboretum, lured by the possibility of Cockatoos that live wild there - White and Salmon-crested. We saw a few of these in trees distantly but were later told by the eBird reviewer that all the birds now present were hybrids between the two. Oh well. Standard Hawaii I suppose.

After an epic but slightly tricky snorkelling session at Electric Beach (advanced swimmers only, and you must have powerful fins!), where a power station warm water outflow attracts vast numbers of tropical fish and turtles it was time to think about leaving. We tried another seawatch down near the Japanese Fishing Shrine, but it was a shadow of what it had been previously as a result of different winds, so instead we went to a local park to concentrate on photography and to see if we could find any new birds for the list.

Yellow-fronted Canary

Ke'ehi Lagoon on the edge of Honolulu has Yellow-fronted Canary so that's where we went, and we managed to find a small group with ease near the bandstand. The list from this site is notable in that every single passerine species we saw was an introduction, with only the Turnstone and PGP lending any credibility to proceedings. Dear oh dear, but this is what it is. There was an article just this week declaring that yet another eight Hawaiian endemics have been declared extinct. It is fair to say that Hawaii is the extinction capital of the modern era. For many reasons, but part of me cannot help but think that the transposition of the American lifestyle onto Pacific islands has played a large part. I was looking at my list of native birds the other day and noted that despite four visits my list of Hawaiian native passerines stands at just 10, with 14 native birds in total - the others being a Duck, a Goose, a Coot, and a Hawk. Of the other 63 species the vast majority have been introduced by humans. Go while you still can! I'll leave you with a final selection of "Zoo"!

Red-billed Leiothrix

White-rumped Shama

Red-whiskered Bulbul

Panther (impact on Albatross colonies currently poorly understood).

Oahu - Day 3

Anyone who has been to Hawaii will know that it is for the most parts a zoo as far as the birds are concered, with the majority of the species you see having been introduced. The real birding spots are few and far between, with the endemic Honeycreepers confined to higher elevations where native forests still cling on and mosquitoes can't (yet) reach. Oahu has a couple of these endemics left, and the best place to see them is the 'Aiea Loop trail, which is reached by travelling east from Honolulu more or less opposite Pearl Harbour. The area is gated, a National Park, and opens at 7am so a little bit after first light - you can expect a short queue of vehicles filled with hikers and joggers, but very few birders. We birded as we waited, with our first Red-crowned Parrots of the trip on their morning commute at around 6.40am, and some relatively tame White-rumped Shama around the nearby gardens. Once open you continue in your car up the slope on a one way loop. We parked as close to the trailhead as we could, so at about 1pm on a clockface, but on reflection it would better to have left it at one of the lower car parks at, say, 3pm, so that we were not faced with a final climb at the very end.

White-rumped Shama. Another introduction.

It's a long walk! We covered nearly five miles doing the whole loop and there is fair amount of up and down to cope with. I am not as young as I once was! The big target here is the Oahu Elepaio, a type of Flycatcher, which has endemic status on Kauai as well as Big Island (Hawaii) - this would be my third and final one. Also present in this area of native habitat are Oahu Amakihi, which also has a cousin on Hawaii, and Apapane which has a wider distribution across the chain. There was also an outside chance of Mariana Swiflet, although this is an introduction from Guam. I had researched this fairly thoroughly and marked several specific spots along the trail that prior ebirders had noted with coordinates. Remarkably  this came good at only the second such spot, with a showy pair feeding a fledged juvenile. I had been expecting to dip so this was seriously good news and a big relief. Unfortunately it was very dark making photographing them pretty difficult.

Oahu Elepaio

Oahu Amakihi

The rest of the trail saw us pick up numerous Oahu Amakihi, but strangely we only heard Apapane and could never track them down. I guess of the three native birds these were the two I wanted, but the missing one would have been a tick for Mick. Non-native birds included Chestnut Munia, Warbling White-eye, Red-billed Leiothrix and Red-whiskered and Red-vented Bulbul. At around the halfway stage it is worth noting that there is a magnificent view over the Halawa Valley, the raised section of the Freeway is particularly striking as it curves into the distance. From my perspective the plants were almost as exciting as the birds, especially as the final stages of the loop were pure Araucaria forest with trees in all stages of development from tiny saplings just growing their first leaves to slender giants a hundred feet tall - again not native but regardless one of my favourite trees on the planet. We arrived at the end of the loop exhausted, hot and dehydrated, and the had to slog it uphill and back to the super-heated car!

Once we had recovered we wound our way down to Honolulu and picked up the H3 road we had been gazing down upon to take us to the east side of the island. Here we visited the Nu-upia Ponds just outside the Marine Corps Base and successfully picked up Black Noddy (the best place on the island to do so) as well as Wandering Tattler which was new for the trip. Hamakua Marsh and the Ka'elepulu Wetlands were a litlle uninspiring as access wasn't really possible, or not that we could work out, but we stoof as the edge to see what we could find - mostly Hawaiian Coot, Cattle Egret, American Moorhen and then all the usual introduced suspects.

Red-crested Cardinal from.....South America!

We then enjoyed a great seawatch from Sandy Beach Dunes Park, with thousands of Wedge-tailed Shearwaters passing at a hundred a minute, Brown Noddy, the three Booby species (Red-footed, Brown and Masked), and several Sooty Tern including a possibly unwell juvenile that landed right next to us in the car park. A scope would have made this final hour truly epic, but packing light we had not brought one - I must buy a travel scope one of these days, it would be transformative. As it was we had to use the cameras to take photos of distant specks, and by then studying the back of the camera through inverted binoculars we could confirm that we had indeed seen Masked Booby. A fairly long drive back to the North Shore for our establised food truck and one small beer routine ended a great and very successful day.

Sooty Tern

Oahu - Day 2

Albatross Day! Mick and I were up nice and early and on the road west towards Ka'ena Point. Coffee at Haleiwa, and then out along the Farrington Highway to the very end where you can leave the car in a reasonably sized car park. Clouds were scudding along at some speed, brisk winds, but overall it felt like a good day to be in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. 

It is a long walk west out to the Point along a rough track, plan on about an hour, especially as you will undoubedtly stop to look at birds. Whilst there are loads of Zebra Dove, African 

The track out to Ka'ena Point. The Albatross colony is at the far end once the cliffs run out.

Silverbill and Waxbill along the track, make sure to scan the cliffs to your left and listen out for Erckel's Spurfowl and Grey Francolin. In common with most birds on Hawaii, both are introductions, but they are no less pleasant for that, and as they are naturalised they do count as a valid ABA species. 

I estimate we saw our first Laysan Albatross about half way along, single birds cruising along the cliffs. Magnificent, utterly magnificent. Little did we know. To enter the reserve at the Point you need to go through an anti-rodent gate. Once inside you walk along roped off paths between low vegetation. It's like the Farnes, but significantly more mega and the 'Terns' have six feet wingspans. My goodness, what a place. Without a shadow of a doubt one of my all time top birding experiences. In mid April there are already some sizeable chicks - huge brown balls of fluff considerably less sleek than their parents. We witnessed lots of dancing, displaying, bill-clattering ceremonies, but it is in the air that these birds are at their most splendid. Effortless gliding low over the ground, held aloft by what seem like impossibly slender wings, but complete masters of their craft. I've rarely had as much fun behind the camera.

At some point during our visit we were amazed to see a much darker Albatross with sooty dark brown plumage, surely a Black-footed Albatross. I had only very recently become aware that this species had been seen sporadically at this site, so to actually be there when one was present seemed impossibly good luck. It got even more surreal when we realised that there were two, and one was ringed so we were able to give the ranger the code when we saw her in her truck later on. One of the birds did actually land from time to time, and seemed to be interacting with some of the Laysan Albatross, seeming particularly interested in chicks. Needless to say we spent a lot of time here, periodically getting soaked as cold squalls came in from the west, but these soon passed and the constant trade winds then dried us and our gear out again. 

As early afternoon approached, and without any food and having run out of water (typical genius planning!) we reluctantly started the long trek back to the car. We spent the afternoon back at Kahuku Aqua Ponds and along the North Shore but I think our minds remained at Ka'ena as we didn't really see anything else noteworthy. Back to the beach for sunset and, as before, dinner from one of the several food trucks that are permanently stationed at Pupukea. All are excellent if rather expensive, but there are seats to sit out and eat on as you look at the sea and you don't begrudge it for the experience. It's just a great place. 

A sight for sore eyes, the incomparable Mr Southcott sporting his new attire!

Oahu - Day 1

The flight loops around Oahu and then approaches from the south. Pearl Harbour is just off to the right.

Leaving Los Angeles early morning, the flight over the Pacific to Hawaii takes around five hours or so. A big lot of nothing and the aircraft are specially certified. We landed just after 11, and as this was a domestic flight we were out and picking up our car immediately - a stonking Ford Mustang convertible. Roof down, hat on, off we go. Pacific Golden Plovers were everywhere, on every bit of short grass available. First order of business was to get Mick properly clothed, and I had previously earmarked a couple of thrift stores where I was confident we could find what was required. You will see what I mean a little further later on during these posts. I was already fully kitted out of course, this being my fourth trip, but I couldn't resist topping up the collection. A number of White Terns were seen in Honolulu itself.

With the essential shopping done we headed east along the coastal highway to the Japanese Fishing Shrine. This is an excellent spot for seawatching, as well as hosting a small colony of Red-tailed Tropicbirds which are just superb birds. My trip research had also indicated that a Red-billed Tropicbird was hanging around the area, which would be a USA tick. Stopping the car at the exact spot is a little tricky, but there is a decent car park just along from the Shrine and then you can pick your way back along the crash barrier to where the Tropicbirds are. God how I love Hawaii, what a place. A turquoise ocean, verdant green slopes, sunshine and the strange croaks of these graceful birds. There were a few Brown Noddy a bit further out, and a Sooty Tern flew past but really it was all about the Tropicbirds. And sure enough, it wasn't long until a bird with distinctive black in the primaries was seen to fly out from the cliffs were stood above. Excellent! As it was the middle of the day with the sun high in the sky the photography was a little challenging, coupled with the fact that I'd been travelling for a day and a half and in any event I often take a little while to get going. Here's the best of a primarily bad bunch but you get the picture. We came away convinced that there were actually a nesting pair of Red-billed Tropicbirds as we saw birds with clearly differing amounts of black in the wing - I suspect that there was a burrow with eggs or chicks in and that they change over periodically. I should probably look that up.

Red-billed Tropicbird

Red-tailed Tropicbird

After a decent amount of time being wowed by these graceful birds we carried on around the coast, stopping first on the road above Makapu'u Beach. Although we didn't have scopes we could see Sooty Tern, a Wedge-tailed Shearwater, and a couple of Red-footed Booby, these latter both new birds for the trip. We continued up to Kahuku, quite a long drive but also spectacular. A good introduction to the topography of these islands, with small sandy beaches, tropical trees, and then huge forested slopes. It was great to be back. Kahuku had been chosen as a spot that seemed to hold a few birds - around the golf course and also the fish ponds a few miles up the road - we started at the Golf Course. I can't now recall all these months later what exactly what we were looking for, but this was where I saw my first Laysan Albatross. It was brief, but monstrously exciting  as well as a littel frustrating as this huge bird glided low over the vegetation and then instantly vanished. How does something that large just disappear? As before Pacific Golden Plover (hereafter PGP) were dotted all over the place but proved impossible to approach. As the golf course changed into low vegetation I noticed a wader running away from us through some low scrub. Initially I thought Whimbrel but it gradually dawned on me that I was looking at a very rare Bristle-thighed Curlew, another brand new bird. Somehow these enigmatic birds, Alaskan breeders, migrate directly across the Pacific to winter in small numbers in Hawaii, and somehow the fact that Kahuku on Oahu was the best place to see them had completely escaped me. So much for research! Other birds seen here included Common Myna, Red-whiskered and Red-vented Bulbul, Spotted and Zebra Doves, all Asian species that have been introduced, as well as a Red-crested Cardinal from South America. A Pheasant called from the bushes. What a place!

Pacific Golden Plover

Bristle-thighed Curlew

At the fish ponds a short distance away we found our first Hawaiian Coot, lots of Black-necked Stilt and some Black-crowed Night Heron, mostly juveniles, but there didn't seem to be a great deal going on and you can only really observe the ponds from the outside. Quite late in the day now, we crossed over to the North Shore and found our accomodation opposite the aptly named Sunset Beach. Oh yes! This is what it's about. A couple of beers were quickly purchased and we saw out the day gazing out over the Pacific.

Sunset Beach, Pupukea

Oahu - Logistics and Itinerary

So this time I went to Oahu, and this time I took Mick who had for a long time wondered what the fuss was about, and also seemed quite taken with the stupid travel arrangements. Oahu was the only major island in the chain that I had never visited barring a flying visit to connect from one flight to another for reasons long forgotten. Unlike previous trips which I booked in August, one of the few months of the year when Laysan Albatrosses are at sea, or once in March to Maui which has no Albatrosses, this was was pencilled in for April. And Oahu has a big breeding colony on its western tip. Finally!

Logistics

• A seven day trip in mid April, leaving after work on a Wednesday to Budapest, and arriving on Friday late morning local time - Thursday was basically spent getting to Los Angeles. We left Hawaii late on Monday evening, overnight back to LA, with Tuesday morning spent birding there before catching an onward afternoon flight to London which arrived on Wednesday afternoon, and after which we had to return to Budapest via a back-to-back to complete the ticket. So whilst it took seven days only four of those were actually spent birding, the rest being travel. As you know I also enjoy the travel part, but it is a very long way away. 
• Flights were on British Airways within Europe and transatlantic, with the flights to Oahu being with American Airlines. The pointless and wasteful hops to Hungary reduced the cost of the trip by approximately 60%. I'm not in charge of pricing, this is just what airlines do. Note that although far cheaper this is a pretty risky strategy, as had we missed the departing flight from Budapest we would have lost the ticket - you cannot just hop on in London. And back-to-backs also require an element of research and planning.
• Car hire via Avis I think, there must be some kind of cartel as all were priced the same. Naturally, and as this was Mick's first trip, we spent the cash and went for a Mustang convertible which was predictably wonderful.
• We stayed at Pupukea on the hipster North Shore, a long way from Honolulu, in a backpacker place where thankfully we got our own room. It's a far cry from the other side of the island and much more pleasant, albeit with a much higher crusty dude ratio. It was also a fraction of the cost of the chain mega-hotels down near Waikiki Beach. 
• We visited five key birding sites on the island; the Kaiwi State Scenic Shoreline (south-east) around the Japanese Fishing Shrine for seabirds, the 'Aiea Loop Trailhead for endemics, Kahuku Beach, Golf Course and Ponds for general birding, the Kaelepulu Wetlands, and of course the famed Ka-ene Point for the Albatrosses. The rest of the time was spent chilling out, eating poke, snorkelling at Electric Beach, and generally remarking how lucky we were.

Itinerary

Day 0: Late evening to Budapest, overnight at the airport.

Day 1: Back to London to catch the flight to Los Angeles. Overnight LA.

Day 2: Mid-morning arrival into Oahu, followed by birding around the Japanese Fishing Shrine for Tropicbirds etc, and then around the Kahuku area.

Day 3:Early start along the Farrington Highway to Ka-ena Point colony, where we spent the morning being mesmerised by not one by two species of Albatross. 

Day 4: The whole morning walking the 'Aiea Loop trail, mostly in the hope of Oahu Elepaio. Afternoon on the east side, taking Nu'upia Ponds, Hamakua Marsh and the Ka-elepulu Wetland before driving back around the coast to the North Shore.

Day 5: We spent the morning around Kahuku, and then visited the Lyon Arboretum. The afternoon was spent sea-watching and then we had a quick look at the Wiliwilinui Trail before we had to get to the airport for our flight.

Day 6: We hired a car from LAX and visited a few sites not too far away including Playa del Rey, Ballona Marsh, and Ken Malloy Harbor.

Day 7: Getting home.

The North Shore